Like a dandelion in a daisy-chain, I slotted in with the fashion editors to talk to Romain de Tirtoff, dit Erté. Their sallies pealed up from the clearing among the nettles where they took wine with him in his publisher’s garden, but his part of the dialogue was inaudible. I expect he was telling them that for a woman to be fashion’s slave is an offence against nature.
When my turn came to share heel-taps with the wasps, I found his tones were still somewhat faint at two yards. This should not be surprising from an 82-year-old being milked for his maximum publicity yield, but I prefer to think the real cause was a natural joy in quiet asides. This and his dreamy little chuckles make an atmosphere of assignation.
Designer Michael Halpern only graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2016, but the label has already become a household name of sorts and an instant go-to for sequined pieces reminiscent of disco days. For his fall 2019 collection, he sent a series of transformational dresses — including those that looked like metallic sunrises, golden gardens and glittering chests of ancient treasure — down the runway. Here's everything you need to know about the show.
Erté was destined for the imperial navy. Failing that, the army. His father and uncle had been navy men. There were painters and sculptors on his mother’s side, but they were thought very frivolous. Romain de Tirtoff (‘Erté’ came from the French pronunciation of his initials) was born in 1892 at the St Petersburg Naval School where his father Pyotr was inspector. When he was a little boy, his aunt bought him a set of wooden soldiers. Instinctively, he hated war, violence and, above all, uniforms. He burst into tears and threw the box out of the window. READ MORE
IN REVIEW: PHOTOS FROM THE ERTExKOBIHALPERIN LAUNCH AT NEIMAN MARCUS CHICAGO October 19th, 2017
On October 19th at Neiman Marcus Chicago, designer Kobi Halperin hosted an invite-only event to celebrate the launch of his ErtexKobiHalperin collection. Attendees listened to the designer explain his inspiration behind the collection and how he felt his vision connected to Erté's artistry. Guests enjoyed champagne as they shopped the new collection, mingling with jewelry design duo Deepa and Jay Lakhani, founders of Deepa Gurnani who collaborated with Kobi Halperin on a selection of items in the clothing line and who themselves recently released a collection inspired by Erté's designs. Erté himself was represented by the presence of two of his artworks, on display courtesy of Martin Lawrence Galleries.
GROSVENOR GALLERY ANNOUNCES "ERTE: A CELEBRATION" EXHIBITION, OPENING NOVEMBER 15 Grosvenor Gallery
Grosvenor Gallery is pleased to announce an exhibition of more than 100 original works by Erté (Romain de Tirtoff) to celebrate the 125th anniversary of the artist's birth. The works originate from the private collection of renowned art dealers Eric and Salome Estorick, who founded the Grosvenor Gallery in 1960. The exhibition tours from it's successful display at The Hermitage in St Petersburg where it was also the inspiration behind the museum's White Nights celebration. READ MORE
The aesthetic of Erté is instantly recognizable, whether from his Vogue cover illustrations to fashions to set design to interior decor to jewelry to famous alphabet letters. Today, the fashion jewelry line is being brought to life by Deepa Gurnani, which has rolled out a robust selection of necklaces, earrings, rings and bracelets, all with a modernized Deco feel. READ MORE
I had the amazing experience of working with the legendary Erté on two occasions. Both were tied into launches of his new works. The first was in 1974, it was the year that Saks Fifth Avenue (Corporate) was celebrating the 50th anniversary of the store’s opening in New York (the store opened on Fifth Avenue on September 15, 1924) and the Chicago store was celebrating this special event with an elaborate cocktail party. Designers had been asked to do special Art Deco inspired garments which we used in our Michigan Avenue windows as well as on models for the event. At the same time, Erté was launching his jewelry collection at the Circle Gallery in the Chicago Marriott Hotel on Michigan Avenue and I was asked to have models dressed in Art Deco garments do informal modeling for this cocktail party…what a perfect tie-in! One of his art pieces featured a gown with a beaded cobweb for a sleeve. We had a similar piece in our collection and I thought it would be amusing to feature it. READ MORE
“The ornately detailed designs are what first drew me to Erté, but most exciting were his explorations of what was futuristic at that time - the combination of geometry and fluidity, I wanted to explore that further.” Anjhe Mules, Founder & Creative Director
Faithful to Lucas Hugh’s creative aesthetic, the AW17 collection is a conceptual nod to French artist and designer, Romain de Tirtoff, better known by his pseudonym, Erté. The brand’s signature blend of style, technical performance and functionality are evident throughout the collection, with dynamic prints drawn from Erté’s richest illustrations taking centre stage.
The resulting collection is striking and energetic. Sleek and flawlessly cut, the Goldleaf and Moonlight series are embellished with gold transfers, are at once fluid and structured - opulent feathers weave around the frame to create a sense of constant flux. Daring and bold, the Erté series beautifully complements this, offering an expressive print in a range of key Lucas Hugh styles – including leggings, a sports bra, a tank and a one-piece.
HARPERS BAZAAR Watch Bazaar Light Up the Empire State Building with its Most Iconic Images In celebration of our 150th birthday, we projected 150 of the most iconic images from the pages of Harper's BAZAAR on the Empire State Building with help from our friends at Tiffany & Co. last night, giving way to the chicest light show New York has ever seen. Watch below and see some of your favorite fashion photography against the city skyline.
From vintage Vogue covers from the 1930s to exquisite sketches of actresses' dresses, head over to the State Hermitage Museum in Saint Petersburg this summer to see a selection of the most astonishing works by Russian-born French artist Erté. You won't be disappointed.
NY TIMES A Designer Launches a New Line With a Little Help From Beyoncé Things look great at present for Mr. Dundas. After leaving Roberto Cavalli in October, he has now launched, or more accurately, teased, a new collection under his own name. On Sunday evening, when Beyoncé took the stage of the Grammys to perform a medley of songs from “Lemonade,” she was dressed as a gold-encrusted goddess out of an Erté fantasy, in the first outfit to carry the Peter Dundas label.
HARPERS BAZAAR The Jazz Age - Bazaar in the 1920s Bazaar was committed to giving the look of its pages an equally modern edge. The design was driven primarily by two men. The first was Erté (the pseudonym for the Russian-born French artist Romain de Tirtoff), whose colorful, fluid illustrations were at once whimsical and elegant, and graced more than 200 covers over 21 years.
NY MAG Lavish Art Deco Fashions, Painted by Erté It’s impossible to look back on flapper dresses and 1920s fashions without mentioning the so-called “Father of Art Deco” Romain de Tirtoff, famously known as Erté. The artist’s career spanned over 80 years, during which he designed sets and costumes for both the stage and screen, jewelry, fine art, sculpture, and over 200 covers for Harper’s Bazaar. Known for an unwavering Art Deco style, he was equally renowned for his wide range within the art world, including his wildly popular Alphabet Suite prints, sketches for Paris fashion houses, and cognac bottle designs for Courvoisier.
FRANCE TODAY From Fashion to Movies: Erté & the History of Art Deco in Paris The world’s first Art Déco building was the Théâtre des Champs-Élysées built in Paris prior to the First World War. Between the two wars, the style was popularized by designers and artists who used its visual drama in theatre and movie sets and costumes, fashion design and graphic art that even today graces public murals and hangs on living room walls. One of the pioneering designers who worked in fashion, illustration, movies and theatre was Erté
WWD Erté Exhibitions to Bow in Russia, New York This summer the late Roman Tyrtov, the artist simply known as “Erté,” will be the focus of a solo show at the Hermitage Museum — more than a century after he left his native Russia. In line with that occasion, the Martin Lawrence Gallery in New York will unveil its own exhibition of his work to coincide with the June 22 opening overseas.
FOOTWEAR NEWS Delman Shoes Celebrated in Artwork of Erté at Met Museum Two legends are being remembered in an exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. Celebrating the 25th anniversary of the death of artist Romain de Tirtoff, better known as Erté, a selection of shoe-inspired art work he did for famed New York manufacturer Herman Delman, is being shown through Sept. 28 at the museum’s Robert Wood Johnson, Jr. Gallery. The museum acquired 13 original shoe designs by Erté for Delman in 1967.
NY TIMES A Deco Moment by Eric Wilson Among the unexplained trends to appear with some regularity in the spring 2012 runway shows — aside from a preponderance of mesh — Art Deco took the cake. Frida Giannini was the biggest proponent of the streamlined 1920s look with her collection for Gucci, called “Hard Deco,” but there were echoes at Etro as well, and flappers could be found at Ralph Lauren and elsewhere. But why? “It’s a way of women returning to a glamorous notion of dressing,” said Charlotte Perman, the author of a new book on Romain de Tirtoff, the Art Deco artist known as Erté, published this month by Chalk & Vermilion. “It is designed for splendor and extravagance.”
W MAGAZINE Art Deco Gold: The Erté Clasp Topping W editors' holiday wish lists: the Clasp, an Erté evening bag brought to life by Stefano Canturi (the international jeweler responsible for Nicole Kidman’s stunning Moulin Rouge “Satine” necklace) with the help of some 3,978 diamonds, 20 ounces of gold, black sapphires, rubies, and pearl tassels. Deceptively demure in size—just large enough for an iPhone and lip gloss—this one-of-a-kind object d'art comes with a $780,000 price tag. Extravagant to be sure, but a girl can dream.
FORBES Erté Originals: Remembering The Father of Art Deco Last week in SoHo, the Martin Lawrence Gallery showed the birth of the Art Deco movement: Dozens of originals by Romain de Tirtoff, aka Erté. The retrospective featured two floors of rare prints, limited edition serigraphs, and bronze sculptures. It also showed The Clasp, a $780,000 jeweled evening bag inspired by an Erté design from 1926.
THE WASHINGTON POST By Renowned Erté "You should do anything in life, but never try to design -- you have not the slightest capacity for it," Erte' was told soon after he started his first job, sketching clothes, in Paris almost 70 years ago. Erte ignored the advice. And at the age of 89, Erte' is enjoying his own revival. Born Romain de Tirtoff in St. Petersburg, Russia, in 1892, he was renowned in the '20s and '30s as a fashion illustrator and fashion and theater designer. Today, he is still making elegant new illustrations, costumes, jewelry and books to more acclaim than ever.
NY TIMES Erté, a Master of Fashion, Stage and Art Deco Design, is Dead at 97 Erte, the Russian-born Art Deco designer whose prolific career in theater, sculpture and the graphic arts spanned most of the 20th century, died here today after a short illness. He was 97 years old. Erte, whose name derived from the French pronunciation of the initials of his real name, Romain de Tirtoff, continued to work until just a few weeks ago. His recent designs included the set for the musical ''Stardust,'' which recently ended a run in Washington, and the set and costumes for ''Easter Parade'' at Radio City Music Hall.
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